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PMR, Climbers & 1042nd Rescue Two on Reid Glacier
Saturday, April 3, 2004
A Saturday morning recreational climb turned into a dramatic rescue,
as a PMR member discovered two mountaineers who had just been
injured in an accident on the West Face of Mount Hood. To make
matters more difficult, the weather created treacherous conditions
for helicopter crews, as near zero visibility hampered the rescue effort.
Iain Morris, a PMR rescue leader, had skied from the summit of Mount
Hood to the saddle near Illumination Rock (see map for details) when
he saw two people laying on the snow of Reid Glacier. Noting
this as unusual, Morris summoned PMR Rescue leader Chris LeDoux and
her climbing partner Grace Radke, who were also near Illumination
Saddle on their own recreational climb. The three managed to
make verbal contact with the injured climbers and Morris radioed to
other PMR members on the mountain that a rescue was in progress.
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Morris and LeDoux requested help from two backcountry skiers who
were in the area and the group gathered as much gear as they could
from their personal equipment. Morris descended on skis to
the Reid Glacier and shortly reached the injured party.
The subjects, a man and a woman, had apparently fallen at least
1,000 feet down a steep chute in the Castle Crags area on the West
Face of Mount Hood. Upon assessment, Morris determined that the man had
a possible head injury, a broken leg, lacerations, mild hypothermia
and symptoms of shock. The woman had a broken ankle,
lacerations, mild hypothermia and symptoms of shock.
By this time, Radke arrived along with a mountain guide named Matt
who had come across the group at Illumination Saddle. This
small group of volunteers, with very little rescue or medical
equipment, attempted to stabilize the patients as much as possible.
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General map of scene
Click photo for larger view
Blackhawk arrives
Click photo for larger view
1042nd rescuer hoist
Click photo for larger view
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Morris determined that a helicopter evacuation was warranted due to the
condition of the patients and the remote location on the mountain. He
radioed for the activation of the Salem-based National Guard 1042nd Medical
Company, who were training in the Portland area at the time. (One of
the backcountry skiers, named Robert, assisted with radio communications
relays in order to do this.)
At this same time, PMR members Marty Johnson and Erik Broms, along with a
volunteer named Pete, descended to Timberline to assemble rescue gear in
case a ground evacuation would be necessary. Just like the others
involved on this day, they happened to be on the mountain that day and were
able to help in a short period of time.
Within about 30 minutes, three 1042nd Blackhawk helicopters arrived
at Mount Hood and lowered two medics and their equipment on to Reid
Glacier. To assist, LeDoux and a former ski patroller named
Chris Kouba descended from Illumination Saddle to the scene. The
medics and the on-scene volunteers stabilized the patients and packed
them in basket litters for evacuation.
Unfortunately, a thick bank of clouds moved in on the area and visibility
dropped to near zero, forcing the Blackhawks to wait at nearby Timberline
Lodge. At this time, two more PMR members arrived at the Lodge
to assist the other rescuers in hauling equipment up the mountain
for a possible ground evacuation. Shortly thereafter, three
other PMR members arrived at the Lodge to support the mission.
Within about 20 minutes, the clouds that had enveloped Mount Hood dissipated and
the helicopters were able to return to the scene.
Two 1042nd choppers performed five hoist operations to retrieve the
two patients, the two medics and a load of rescue equipment before
taking the injured climbers to Portland area hospitals. The
exact condition of the two climbers is not known, but both are
expected to survive their harrowing experience.
PMR would like to stress that this rescue was originally not part of a formal
exercise and that our initially responding members were on the mountain that day for
recreational climbing only. Fortunately, many of our volunteers
carry their own search and rescue radios while on the mountain for
communication in just these types of situations.
PMR would also like to thank the multiple people who pitched in
to help with patient care, radio communications and equipment
hauling, as well as the skilled members of the National Guard 1042nd
Medical Company. This timely rescue would not have been
possible without the help of everyone involved.
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